
Rich,
clever, educated and trendy, the very young Mary Phelps was being
dressed for a high society coming out party. She was horrified to see
that they had her firmly encased in a corset with countless whale bones,
thin straps and metal hooks. " I am not putting this on" she screamed, "
Out with the corset!".
With the help of her maid, they sewed 2 silk scarves together and attached that to her body with some ribbons. It was the very first brassiere, although there had been many similar concoctions. Mary Phelps patented it in 1914 and sold the right to Warners who made it into a proper garment.
That first bra didn't really support, but flatten the chest of the woman (What an idea!)! Quite appropriate at the time thought with the emancipated and madcap flappers of the 20's. It was the Russian immigrant Ida Kaganovich, better known as Ida Rosenthal, who gave the definite rounded shape to the bra, molding it to the female form of breasts by different sized cups. For that Ida Rosenthal created in 1928 the Maidenform company. Following the same route, Warner adopted in 1935 a classification of cups of different sizes with the letters: A,B,C,D.
Mary Phelps didn't dedicate herself to lingerie but to literature, under the name of Caresse Crosby (the surname of her 1st husband). She wrote poetry, cultivated friendship with intellects of her time, and became editor of renowned novelists like Hemingway, Faulkner, D.H. Lawrence, Dorothy Parker, etc. In the 60's she founded the Association of Women Against War and she died in 1970.
During her long life, she had witnessed the unstoppable revolution of the bra which, after the 2nd World War, had become the indispensable garment. She had time to see the strapless bras, which would have been perfect in her youth under the flimsy evening gowns for those endless parties. She had time to also see again that latest revolutionary corset, which had caused her to yell "Out with the corset". Even the more recent outcry: "Out with the bra!"
Tags:Bra,Corset,FashionHistory
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